Cheese played a significant role in the ancient Roman diet, spanning all social classes, from the emperors and Roman elite to the peasants. The wide array of cheeses available in the Roman Empire reflected the geographic diversity of the regions under Roman control, as well as the varying social status of those who consumed them. Cheese, known as caseus in Latin, was not just a food staple but also an ingredient in cooking, a trade commodity, and a luxury item depending on its quality and the animals from which it was made.
Cheese in the Roman Elite’s Diet
For the emperors and the elite, cheese was not just sustenance but a symbol of affluence and sophistication. These privileged Romans had access to some of the finest cheeses produced in various regions of the empire. Many of the cheeses enjoyed by the wealthy were likely aged, flavored with herbs, or made using more elaborate techniques than those available to the general population. The use of moulds and herbs to flavor cheese was common among the wealthy.
One of the more famous Roman cheeses was caseus Vestinus, a cheese made in the area of Vestinum, in the Apennine Mountains of central Italy. It was highly prized and frequently mentioned in Roman literature. This cheese was likely made from sheep’s milk, as the rugged terrain of the Apennines was ideal for grazing sheep. Sheep’s milk was often preferred by the elite for its richer taste and higher fat content compared to goat or cow’s milk. Caseus Vestinus may have been a hard, aged cheese with a strong flavor, akin to the Pecorino Romano we know today, which is still produced in Italy and is one of the cheeses with a direct lineage to Roman times.
Another cheese favored by the elite was caseus Lunensis, made in the region of Luna, which is in modern-day Liguria. This cheese was reportedly softer and creamier, likely made from cow’s or goat’s milk, which was more common in the fertile lowlands of northern Italy. Such cheeses were often eaten fresh, paired with fruit or honey in elaborate meals served at Roman banquets. These fresh cheeses might resemble ricotta or even a soft, young cheese like stracchino or robiola, still produced today in Italy.
Cheese for Roman Soldiers and Peasants
Cheese was a crucial element in the diet of Roman soldiers, as well as the lower classes. It was portable, nutritious, and could last longer than other dairy products without spoiling. Soldiers carried cheese in their rations, often eating it with bread or other simple foods. The cheeses they consumed were probably less refined than those eaten by the elite and were likely made from sheep’s or goat’s milk. These cheeses would have been simpler in flavor and texture, perhaps something similar to today’s pecorino fresco or caprino, fresh cheeses made from sheep or goat’s milk, respectively.
The peasants, who often lived in rural areas and had access to livestock, would have also relied on cheese as a key source of protein and fat. Peasant cheeses were generally made from whatever milk was available, usually from goats or sheep, as cows were more valuable for their labor and milk production was secondary. Goat’s milk cheese was often favored in regions where the terrain was too rough for cattle, such as in hilly or mountainous areas. The production of simple, fresh cheeses made from raw milk was common among the rural poor. These cheeses were probably tangy and soft, somewhat similar to today’s ricotta or pecorino fresco.
Roman cheesemakers employed basic techniques such as curdling milk with rennet from animal stomachs or using acidic substances like vinegar or wine to coagulate the milk. The curds were then pressed into molds and left to age or eaten fresh, depending on the type of cheese desired. For the lower classes, fresh cheese provided an immediate food source, while aged cheese offered something more durable and portable.
Cheese-Making Regions of the Roman Empire
Cheese production in the Roman Empire was widespread, with certain regions becoming famous for their particular types of cheese. As the empire expanded, so did the diversity of cheese available to Romans. In addition to Italy, provinces such as Gaul (modern-day France), Hispania (modern-day Spain), and the Greek territories also produced high-quality cheeses that were imported to Rome.
One notable region for cheese production was Cisalpine Gaul, located in northern Italy. This area was known for its rich dairy products, and it’s likely that the cheeses produced here were made from cow’s milk, as the fertile plains allowed for large herds of cattle. Cheeses from this region might have resembled modern-day Parmigiano-Reggiano or Grana Padano, hard cheeses with a long aging process that develops intense flavors.
In the southern regions of Italy, including Sicily, sheep and goats were more prevalent due to the rugged terrain, and cheeses from these areas were typically made from sheep’s or goat’s milk. These cheeses were likely similar to today’s Pecorino Siciliano, a hard, salty cheese still produced on the island today.
Cheese in the Roman Diet
Cheese was a versatile food in the Roman diet. It was eaten on its own, used in cooking, or combined with other foods in various dishes. Wealthy Romans might enjoy cheese as part of an elaborate meal, served with olives, fruit, and wine. It was also used in libum, a type of sacrificial cake made from cheese, flour, and honey, offered to the gods during religious ceremonies.
For the lower classes, cheese was more of a daily staple, eaten with bread or used in simple cooking. Its portability and long shelf life made it an essential food for soldiers, farmers, and laborers, who needed sustenance that could last during long working hours or marches.
Continuity of Roman Cheeses in Modern Italy
Many of the cheeses eaten in ancient Rome have direct descendants that are still made in Italy today. Pecorino Romano, for instance, has been produced in Italy for over 2,000 years and is still a popular cheese in modern cuisine. Similarly, ricotta, which was made by reheating whey left over from cheese production, has its roots in ancient Roman cheese-making practices. Fresh cheeses like caprino and pecorino fresco are also closely tied to the cheeses of the Roman countryside, made from goat’s and sheep’s milk in small villages.
In conclusion, cheese was a vital component of the ancient Roman diet, enjoyed by all classes but with significant variation in quality and type. From the luxurious, herb-flavored cheeses of the emperors to the simple, fresh cheeses of the peasants, cheese reflected the diversity of Roman society and its far-reaching empire. Many of these ancient cheeses have survived in one form or another, continuing to be a treasured part of Italian culinary tradition.
